Welcome to our Tack Shop

"Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you've decided to see beyond the imperfections".

1.) Saturday Jan.9th begins promptly @ 1:30-2:30 pm- (gate opens at 1:00) Hands on Saddle fitting clinic- $25.00 per person. $40.00 per couple

$25.00 private saddle fitting offered to the horses/saddles of clinic participants immediately following the clinic:

2.) Saturday Jan.30th 1:30-2:30pm mounted training clinic -The fundamentals of side passing- $35.00. (includes $10.00 arena fee)

3.) Saturday Feb. 20th: 1:30-3:00pm- mounted training clinic understanding and learning to apply the fundamentals of pressure/release system- $35.00 (you will gain a better "feel" in your hands after this clinic). horse n rider teams will be training on obsticles such as boulders, logs, bridges and tarps.

4.) 4 week training class on Fridays!!! MARCH 5th-March 26th. (THE week of March12th-class will be held on Thursday that week since I am already booked on another event that weekend)

1 1/2 hours per day each Friday evening at 6:30-8:00. (gate opens at 6:00) I will diagnose your hitches n glitches with your horse, then I will assist you to train your own horse past these hang ups. You ride and train your own horse.

This is how it works...I demonstrate- you repeat and I critique until you get it right and your horse begins to respond properly.

If you find it necessary for me to ride your horse to get it past whatever is going on... there will be an additional cost of $25.00 due that night.

You will need to practice during the week and come back next week for class. You may haul in to use my arena to practice midweek. the arena fee is $10.00. ( no Saturday haul ins)

At the beginning of class every student will demonstrate what they practiced all week. I critique... you adjust your style so that your horse gives you a better response-after I have moved down the line to each student you will learn something new!

I demonstrate the next technique, you repeat... I critique...and so forth each week. If you have problems that I do not have time to clear up in class...you schedule a private lesson just you and your horse and me and mine...so that you can be prepared to continue the next week and keep up with the rest of the students.

8 students per class @ $35.00 per class (this fee includes the arena fee) = $140.00.

If you miss a class you can apply $20.00 of your $35.00 class fee towards the private lesson you will need during the week to stay caught up. If you don't take a private lesson...you forfeit the fee.

The purpose of this class is to advance you as a team with your horse and overcomes some fears you may have about your horse and its capabilities...sometimes just getting in front of a trainer who can watch you and critique you and your horse is all that is necessary in order to resolve whatever is going on and advance you as a team. Many of of your fears can be alleviated and hence...your horses response to your fears can be resolved so that you can advance as a team

but you cannot advance if you are unwilling to get to class and to practice during the week.

There will be a continuing class in April for these 8 students if they should decide to recommit to another 4 weeks of instruction, as well as a new 4 week "start-up" class offered on a different day of the week.

CALL OR EMAIL TO GET ON THE CLASS SIGN UP SHEET. 25% DEPOSIT ($35.00) REQUIRED TO HOLD A SPOT IN THIS CLASS!

5.) Saddle fitting clinic to be scheduled in March. no date set at this time. Cost will be $30.00 per person for the clinic. $45.00 per couple. private fittings offered to haul-ins afterward clinic at $50.00 per horse. Printed material s provided so participants can take notes. Come prepared with lawn chair, Lap blanket, Hot beverage and snacks, clipboard and pens. Heaters will be provided thruout arena. Ranch horses will be used to demonstrate at clinic.

UPS GROUND or USPS whichever is cheaper. Sometimes I don't know until I actually take them in to ship them, since their internet calculator is often times inaccurate. I ship within 7 DAYS OF RECEIPT OF PAYMENT... I CHARGE $15.00 FOR PACKING MATERIALS AND THE BOX.

I LIVE QUITE A WAYS OUT OF TOWN SO I WON'T MAKE A SPECIAL TRIP BUT IF BUYER NEEDS THE SADDLE IMMEDIATELY AND WOULD LIKE AN "EXPRESS SHIPMENT" I WILL MAKE THE DRIVE FOR AN ADDITIONAL $20.00.

1) If a shipped saddle doesn't fit your horse.I have allowed you to have the saddle in your possession for 3 days b4 you have to to end it back. I will refund your purchase price minus the 10% restocking fee. You will be responsible to pay postage both ways. saddle must be received back at my ranch within within 14 days from date of original shipment from my ranch, and be clean and in same condition, it must be insured for purchase price at buyers expense in order to be accepted. If it is insured I will accept the saddle from the mail carrier and upon opening the box I will inspect the saddle for damages that may have been incurred while in your possession. If its been well cared for and still in same condition as when I shipped it to you then I will accept it for a refund. If not, I will expect you to mail me the shipping amount so I can return it to you.

Call me if you will be returning a saddle. I WILL ask u if you have taken care of it and it is in same condition b4 allowing you to ship it to me. I expect honesty! Don't expect to sneak one by me, ok? remember...I will be holding the saddle and the money...so play fair with me from the start! if its received a large scratch, bite mark or trailer rub or something of the sorts while you have had it. I will not refund. Then you will have to pay me to ship it back to you!

If you have shipped the saddle within the 3 days its allowed in your possession and the saddle is received back at the ranch within the 14 day return period then a 10% restocking fee will be deducted from the purchase price and the difference will be mailed within 10 days of receipt of saddle. IE: you received the saddle on a Monday it must be boxed and reshipped on Wed. if you received the saddle on a Friday it must be back in the mail the following Monday morning- so that it is in route that entire day)

*transport saddle in the shipping box or covered with a large plastic bag or saddle cover to prevent scratches and water damage.

*when handling the saddle out of protective cover be sure not to scrape it on walls or doorways such as in and out of trailer.

*put the saddle on a clean pad. Do not ride in the rain or on a "real ride" where it could get hurt until its yours!

2) If you have come to the ranch and brought your horse in order to buy a saddle and left with one that you are satisfied fits your horse and is comfortable to you then there is no return policy offered. The saddle is sold as is. If you change your mind~then you can resell it or you are welcome to call me and ask me what price I will buy it back at.

3) If you have come to the ranch to buy a saddle and not brought your horse then you have 3 days to try it and get it back to me ON THE 3RD DAY and I will refund the full purchase price as long as the saddle is clean and in same condition. If you can't get it back to me in the 3 days, then I will accept it back up to 7 days but will deduct a 10% restocking fee from the purchase price. no exceptions. If you tell me you can't get it back to me at the specified time then don't take the saddle until you can!

a) consignments -items not belonging to me- website will indicate a clients saddle by the words "on consignment or "owner asking"

c) if you have traded in your saddle towards the purchase price on one of mine.

5) But please understand that I am selling you a USED saddle, therefore it will have some blemishes when u receive it. Cosmetic/visual blemishes are what they are. If you bought it with a sweat mark, scratch or a missing concho you cant return it becuz it shows those kinds of usual wear on a used saddle. ok? so be sure to ask for enuf pictures that you can be sure its what you want to own and ride.

5) If I find that the saddle has been damaged upon return to the shop and I can not resell it~ then its your loss if you chose not insure it~ I will not refund your money.

Selling a saddle the way I have chosen to do it, with all the advice and time I spend with each customer prior their purchase decision I have had to modify my return policy several times in order to become satisfied with it myself. Its been a bit of a journey for me and I have been extremely unhappy with the folks who have brought their horse to my ranch, taken up 4-5 hours of my time, taken a saddle home and then called to return it for some bogus excuse expecting me to believe them....ugh...people! so I began to realize I need to protect myself from this continual reoccurance. Its frustrating. So please understand that my return policy is what it is becuz I need to protect myself from continual returns when people are allowed the time to find something cheaper AFTER they have had the benefit of a saddle fitting here at the ranch with their horse...

My saddles are guaranteed sound. No broken trees and no broken riggin up underneath. Every saddle that comes in is inspected by more than one person to be sure its safe and solid when it comes in and b-4 it goes in the box to be mailed out.

most of my shipping boxes are 21 x21x30 to 34 , so that box size needs plugged into the shipping calculator in order to get a proper shipping calculation. I will verify shipping prior making a shipping quote. but at least you can get an estimate prior contacting me. smaller saddles can fit into a smaller box....sometimes I have them, sometimes I don't and that is why I make final shipping calculation since I may be able to save you money by having a smaller box on hand.

FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT CAN MAKE THE DRIVE TO ME...I CHARGE A MERE $75.00 FOR A SADDLE FITTING SESSION. THERE ARE SEVERAL SADDLE FITTERS HERE IN OREGON...THEY CHARGE $200.00 AND UP. SO I BELIEVE I AM WORTH THE DRIVE FROM WHERE EVER YOU ARE.

If you purchase a saddle from me I will apply $50.00 of the saddle fit fee towards the purchase price of the saddle.

FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO CALL ME AND NEED SADDLE FITTING ADVICE OVER THE INTERNET , I CAN ASSIST YOU QUITE ACCURATELY VIA EMAIL, PICTURES, VIDEO AND VERBAL CONVERSATION THE FEE IS $45.00. WHICH YOU CAN DEPOSIT INTO PAYPAL( madrick1@centurytel.net) AT ANY POINT B4 YOUR PICTURES ARRIVE TO MY EMAIL. THEN OUR DIALOG CAN BEGIN AND I WILL STAY WITH YOU UNTIL YOU HAVE LOCATED A SADDLE THAT FITS YOUR HORSE FOR NO ADDITIONAL FEE! (IF YOU PURCHASE A SADDLE FROM ME- $25.00 OF THE SADDLE FIT FEE IS APPLIED TO THE SADDLE YOU PURCHASE)

MY SOLE PURPOSE IN THIS HEARTFELT MISSION I AM ON HERE.... IS THE KNOWLEDGE THAT I HAVE HELPED THESE NOBLE ANIMALS BE MORE COMFORTABLE DOING THEIR JOBS AS RIDING COMPANIONS!

Cut a 16inch wire, copper is best but baling wire works! fold it in half so there are 8 inches on each side. gently form the wire over your horses withers behind the scapula, making certain the entire wire is formed to the horse clear to the ends. Take it off the horse and lay it flat. place your tape measure at the top and drop strait down 3 inches, then measure the distance left to right from that point. then measure the distance between the ends of the wire. take a picture of this mold on a light colored surface and email it to me with the pictures requested.

These are the pictures I will need in order to fit one of my saddles to your horse via the internet!

with these 8 pictures I can properly assist you in determining if the saddle you are interested in on my website will fit you and your horse!

also send me the brand name of the saddle you are attempting to use that isn't fitting, serial# if avail, gullet and bar width and skirt length from front to back.

Please understand that the height of your horse doesn't depict the size of saddle you or he will need> I've fit 13 hand ponies with an extra wide QH bar saddle and 17hand Tb's and Saddlebreds with Semi QH trees. The size tree your horse needs doesn't depict the size seat you as a rider will need. they are separate issues. Also please understand that an "Arab tree" saddle doesn't always mean narrow either. I've seen Arab tree saddles be wider thru the bars than full QH tree saddles. This depends on the maker. Some makers realize that alot of Arabs are flat back and mutton withered across the top and other saddle makers make their Arab tree to fit the thinner type Arabians so put a straiter bar tree in their Arabian saddles. Many Arab saddles have a contoured tree with more rocker- but your arab/horse may not need more contour so buying one of these would be painful for your horse. It pays to do your homework when buying a saddle to fit your horse as an individual. Most saddle makers have a website these days so email them and ask them about the trees in their saddles-even if you are purchasing a used make of their saddle, they are most helpful in after market sales of their saddles.

Please remember that as your horse ages he will need a different saddle, so be sure to reassess your saddle fit at the beginning of each new riding season.

So heres a little FYI to raise your awareness when looking at your horses back:

if your horses back looks like a church steeple from the top down. you will need a narrower tree.

If his back looks like the top side of a ball or the rolling hills of Missouri he will need a wide flat bar

If His back looks like a triple Mountain, a taller mountain in the middle (his wither)...this is where it gets tricky becuz you may only be able to fit his back with a wide tree but the slope of the shoulder is the final factor for this type of horse. My Peebs is this way and thru the years as he has gotten older I have changed saddles a few times in order to keep him in a comfortable fit.

If his back looks like a bowl you will need a tree with alot of contour/rocker to prevent bridging

If his back is really strait and there isn't much rise from the lowest part of the back to the top of the wither you will need a tree that is strait and with little rocker. but remember, you still need to determine wide or narrow bar! they are separate issues.

If your horses shoulder ties into his wither in the forward part of the wither, the center of his wither or behind his wither all means something too! becuz this is your horses shoulder action. the way he moves...you've heard the term a strait or slopey shoulder?

This factor determines whether or not your horse will need a tree with a flare in the front to the bars to accomodate the shoulder in and out of the gullet.

So! I know this is confusing....but I hope it helps you when looking at your horse or ponys back.

the difference between the semi qh, qh and wide qh tree is the angle of the bars and the width of the gullet at the top where the bars begin.

The semi QH tree is narrower at the top, but the bar angle is generally the same as a qh tree making the width all the way down slightly narrower than the QH tree by up to an inch from start to finish. whereby fitting a narrower horse both up on its topline as well as lower on the bottom of the tree. so fitting a horse without much upper or lower shoulder muscling. not for a wide bodied horse with a wide chest and big shoulder.

this crates trail saddle has a semi qh tree with the same gullet measurement as the "wide Qh tree" saddle on the right below, but has a straiter bar angle making the skirts drop down straiter along the body of the horse. this saddle is made for a narrower horse such as a tennessee walker body type, narrow without much outside shoulder muscling. while you might be fooled into thinking it would fit a heavy horse with a big wither but with his heavy muscling in the lower shoulder it would rub him painfully all along his ribcage at the bottom of the bars. So you MUST pay attention to the angle of the bar, which is the width of the bars at the bottom as well as the top.

The Circle Y roping saddle has a regular QH tree and is 1 inch wider in the gullet (the channel going down the back) which allows more room for a comfortable fit for a wider back and heavier shoulder. but the bar angle is generally the same as the semi qh tree...only having a wider beginning so a wider ending at the bottom of the bar.

The 2 saddles below are wide tree saddles. the first one is Billy Cook and its not only wide in the gullet but also having flatter bars to accomodate not only the meatier topline but also a wide body and large shoulder muscle. bull doggy built horses with wide chests and meaty lower shoulder. the 2nd saddle is a Clinton Anderson and its a wide tree as well, but has a narrower gullet which will make better contact on the top of the bars for some horses. but the POFC is the same on both saddles between the 2 front conchos. (so u must KNOW what your horse's body type needs b4 you shop!)

both these saddles have a wide QH tree, but the saddle on the right has a narrower gullet than the other. they measure the same in the bars where I am holding the tape measure. do you see how "flat" the bars are in the saddle on the right compared to the saddle on the left? the saddle on the right would fit a select number of draft horses due to the flat bar angle.(just to add a little confusion)

here are some general measurements that all saddles will fit into. please keep in mind that the brand of saddle and the type/make of tree they are building on varies brand to brand and even year to year-just like car bodies and styles vary year to year within the same make, right? When a saddle company discontinues buying the trees they are building the saddle on from one company ~ the new tree maker has his/her own idea of what a semi QH, QH and wide QH tree measurement should be- so while its still built on a qh tree...it could be up to 3/4 of an inch wider or narrower than the same brand and make of saddle you might have purchased 1 year earlier!!

tree variance also depends on the brand of saddles and can vary as much as 1 inch difference brand to brand( CircleY, Herford, Crates, Martin, Billy Cook etc) ...which is why I am giving you a range on each tree size.

here are some general rule measurements to assist you in deciding what tree your saddle has in it:

bars measure 9-10 inches

wade trees are different and so are gaited trees...these gullets can be as narrow as 4 inches! so lets just not go there, ok?

FYI: people don't often pay attention to loin pressure when attempting to determine saddle fit. This is a tree rocker issue, skirt length issue, or a padding issue. could be either or a combination.

the amount of contour or "rocker" that the tree has is an enormous factor in fit as well. No matter how wide the tree is, if its strait from front to back and your horse needs more contour (swayback) or visa versa- he needs a straiter tree (mule backed)... the tree won't fit. it will bridge-leaving gaps under the saddle or cause pressure points from a deep spot in the tree where your horse needs it to be shallow.

my best advice is to take your horse in for a saddle fitting with the saddle of your choice to be certain its a good fit for your horse. This is NOT something you should attempt to decide on your own. The purpose in my saddle educations section is to raise your level of awareness on saddle fit. NOT to assist you in making the final decision on your own. Saddle fit is a HUGE concern. People don't put enuf emphasis in making certain that their saddle fits their horse and this is a huge factor in horse behavior and training. If they are hurting how can they possibly concentrate on learning when all they can think of is getting the problem off their backs? Just becuz you are a trainer doesn't mean you are an expert on saddle fit! In ignorance, trainers attempt to train away a pain response. This is NOT fair to your horse! So please folks....I urge you to take your horse and saddle to a saddle fitting expert and have it checked out. And if your horse gains a buncha weight or widens with age.... have it checked AGAIN. Just becuz it fit when you had it checked 2 years ago...doesn't mean it will fit now.

heres an "aha" concept: do you wear the same size clothes as you did in high school? or since you've had children? or since your knee surgery 5 years ago? horses go thru body changes too! these changes mandate a new saddle!

and sometimes.....there isn't a tree that will fit your horse perfectly...so then a saddle fitter must compensate with proper padding...and I assure you that a traditional built up pad is NOT the answer!

as for your needs...... pant size determines your size seat. see "so you've bought a nice horse lets get started the right way" section.

I wish you the best of luck and I am sure in hopes I have a saddle in my shop that will fit both you and your horse.

I have posted pictures of saddle parts so that when you shop you can be articulate with your questions about saddle parts.

In this picture the gullet is the same on both normal and wide angle... however...the gullet CAN be wider or narrower...you would need to know what gullet width you need to fit your horse as well as the bar angle needed, and length of bar front to back...

and these are just the basics! becuz then we get into twist and rocker and taper and and and....

I know there is a glare on the tape in this picture. but the picture has been provided to show where to measure to. do you see the line of stitching clearly running around the cantle. It attaches the suede to the slick leather of the cheyenne roll on this cantle. Notice that the metal end of the tape is not pressed against the back of the horn, but instead raised just above the hole in the front of the seat and is pressed against the back of the swells instead. The tape can be raised up 1-2 inches from this hole without changing the seat size. but if you raise the tape up to the back of the horn you can actually gain a whole inch- sometimes more if the horn is a "forward" horn. Where by misrepresenting the actual size of the seat. That is why the proper way to measure is to press the tape to the back of the swells and stretch it tight and run it to the first line of stitching you come to on the back of the seat. A buyer can often be extremely upset when they have paid shipping on a saddle that the seat has been measured incorrectly...I know...I have been one of those buyers many times! This saddle has a 16inch seat

HOW TO PROPERLY MEASURE THE BARS AND GULLET OF A SADDLE AND KNOWING THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE 2!

1) the picture below demonstrates how to measure the BARS of a saddle where tree makes first contact to the horses back (POFC-point of first contact): this older Circle Y saddle measures 7.5. but is considered by Circle Y to be a QHBar at the time they were putting this brand of tree in their saddles... I consider it a semi QH bar compared to other trees (even within the circle Y brand of saddles) that measure a full 8 inches at this point.

2) the picture below IS how to measure the gullet: (this is a newer Circle Y fqhb-the measurement is 6- 6.5 depending on how you read it)

(just as in the top picture of an older fqhb circle Y saddle only this newer one is 8 inches instead of 7.5- BOTH are considered fqhb by Circle Y!)

4) below is the same newer Circle Y saddle demonstrating the bottom of the bars measurement(ie: where the rigid tree ends) measures 13 inches

5) the saddle picture below was recently sent to me by a client needing clarification. and while the measurements are improperly named- my reason in using this picture is to point out the 2 inch difference in the top of the bars when compared to the 2 Circle Y fqhb saddles shown above:

this saddle owner has named the top measurement a "gullet measurement" when the gullet is actually measured higher up where the metal brads end.

so this is actually the "bars measurement" or "point of first contact"- this narrow saddle measures only 6 inches: which is not even close to being wide enuf for the average QH unless padded up to set higher so that the horses back actually makes contact lower on the bars where the bars widen out. but by doing that you lose stability since there isnt much tree contact running down the sides of your horse. so you will roll side to side easier from side to side with less bar contact. and you will be tempted to cinch your horse tighter thinking that is the problem....but that will only cause your horse to become bitter about being saddled. so if u have been experiencing this problem.... get a WIDER saddle!

To measure the bars at POFC (POINT OF FIRST CONTACT) to the horses back (ie: the most important measurement when determining fit) The tape must be placed on front lip of saddle, level with the centers of conchos. The inside to inside distance between the front of the bars is how much room the tree provides for the horses shoulders to work. The bars is the place of "first contact" that the saddle makes with the horse. A good indicator of an ill fitting saddle is if this front edge buries itself (makes a dent or depression) into the horse when cinched down and you cannot comfortably get your fingers under the front edge of leather. If your fingers cannot comfortably fit up in there then imagine how your horses shoulder would feel to come up and repeatedly hit that with your weight in the saddle? Please keep in mind that this is only one of several ways to determine correct fit. also keep in mind that if your horse has a sway in his back (due to age or conformation), you may have to properly pad his back with the specialty orthopedic pads specially designed to fill in the hallows behind his shoulders or to fill in the low spot in his back between his shoulders and loins in order to get a saddle to fit properly (or order a modified association tree in your next saddle! remember: Corriente Saddlery makes an excellent one!) . also Rocking R arab tree is excellent for this type horse! Or if your horse s conformation "runs downhill" ANY saddle will slide forward and bear down in the front and bump his shoulders if its improperly padded. So pay attention to these types of conformation details when determining fit. Now a days the saddle fleece is no long an important factor on a saddle and should NOT be considered sufficient padding when combined with a navaho pad, or foam/fleece combination pad....there is NO REPLACING the necessity of a thick comfortable pad! There are several articles out that say the "skito pad" is sufficient padding also articles that say that the semi- quarter horse tree fits the majority of horses...as a trainer I STRONGLY disagree with both statements...they simply haven't proven true in my barn so why would I think they would anywhere else?! as for the skito pads....how would you like to have your hair pulled by sticky rubber material?

also...Too many trainers/riders don't put enuf emphasis on the fact that bad behaviour could quite possibly be a pain response and they try to "train away" the signs of pain and eventually tell the owner to get a new horsey....often not the best advice!

There are 5 things that I start with when I get a horse in with bad behaviour.... 1) ill fitting or poorly padded saddle 2) chiropractor needed

3) bad shoeing (painful angles or unbalanced hoof) 4) dental work needed. 5) unsoundness-(could be temporary soreness or a permanent injury or disease)

Justin Performance pad- approx cost 90--120.00

Air Ride Ortho Sport and the Cavello Western Bridge pad- these are great for the horse with hollows behind the withers

Twenty-X Elite pad- 120.00-140.00

Abetta Ultimate pad- 80-110-00

Reinsman Contour Swayback Saddle Pad-can be purchased from www.horsesaddleshop.com

the following pad is the one I recommend the most for the saddle fitting issues that cannot be solved 100% due to conformation:

professional choice charmayn james peanut pad

Please keep in mind that pads must be kept properly washed just like your personal garments in order to prevent chafing and bacterial skin/hair infections! Pads must be checked every riding season to be sure it has not compacted in the pressure areas and is no longer doing its job of leveling the load and absorbing the shock of your bodies impact.

DO NOT cut corners on the gear your horse wears. Comfort is as essential to your horses performance and maintaining his "happy and willing to work" attitude! If he is uncomfortable he will NOT be willing, and you will begin to see behavior problems such as pinning his ears, refusal to stand still or biting during saddling! refusing to lope.

Your saddle fit should be checked at the beginning of every riding season to be sure your horses back and/or weight has not changed making it necessary to buy a different saddle or at the very least a new and/or additional pad to adjust and/or absorb the ill fit.

MY FAVORITE PAD COMBO IS: A 1" CONTOURED FELT PAD WITH WITHER RELIEF UNDER A PROFESSIONALS CHOICE AIR RIDE PAD

when hez doin you the favor of packin you up the trail so YOU can have a relaxing time.

so PLEASE pay attention to the age of your gear, cleanliness and fit! just becuz your saddle fit your horse last year doesn't mean it will fit this year.

as your horse ages its back changes shape. In fact...their backs change shape from spring to fall of the same year due to weight change. So you may need 2 saddles depending on the time of year you are riding and the physical condition of your horse.

Please note: if you have a high withered horse thats narrow in the wither then drops down to wide shoulders.

try a MODIFIED ASSOCIATION TREE.... CORREINTE SADDLERY MAKES A REALLY GOOD ONE!

this tree will fit the sallow area between the wither and shoulder becuz it flares for the shoulder and then and narrows behind the flare (behind the shoulder)(this eliminates bridging) before it flattens back out across the back but has enuf height in the pommel to accomodate the high wither.

or at the very least buy a professionals choice smx air-ride ortho sport pad or a cavello western bridge pad that is built in behind the shoulders to elevate the bars slightly so as to allow for your horses shoulders to move freely under the bars without hitting them.

Click on the link below to read this EXCELLENT article on correct saddle placement/fitting and how to tell if your current saddle is ill-fitting:

(if u have one that I don't have listed PLEASE email it to me so I can post it!)

New Kiefer built all aluminum Genesis. Ready to go to the horse show, trail head, hunting camp or road trip. Everything is in excellent working order. Listed below is a full description of what the trailer has to offer:

* Drop Down Feed Windows *60/40 Rear Door w/Removable Post *Full Collapsible Rear Tack

*Outside body width 7’ *Inside Body Width 6'8" *Inside height 7’ *Body Length 15' *Gooseneck length 7'6"

*Short wall 4’, long wall 8’ *Slam Latch Dividers *18”x24” Sliding Windows *Break Away Switch w/battery

*Rubber Kick Mats on Wall *Rubber Floor Mats *Padded Butt Bar in Rear *Interior Stall Wall Lined

*3 Dome Lights, 1 in tack, 2 in stall area *2 Dome Lights in Dressing Rm. *1 Two Way Roof Vent

If you sit in this saddle , you will be delighted, it has an excellent ground seat for an all day trail ride.
Exactly how a Wade should sit!

This is a lovely old reining saddle. a true classic! the pictures do NOT do it justice. every time I go into the shop I tell myself to take new ones to c if they will show it off better.! the tree on this is EXTRA WIDE with a 7 inch gullet and nearly 9 inches at the POFC on the bars.

only blemish is: has a torn spot on the fleece up underneath. but nothing that needs to be replaced.

attribute: has the romantic pelican horn that it s one of my favorite attributes in a horn since its always ultra low profile to stay out of the riders solar plexes. has a deep seat to keep you on your center point of balance. 3.75 inch high cantle low profile 10 pommel. single skirt. rawhide wrapped rawlahide reiner tree. white buckstitched suede seat. also has a nice upgrade of antiqued berry conchos. 27inch skirt length.

This saddle has a good tree with a slight amount of rocker that makes it fit a variety of horses! its not too heavy at 34lbs. cantle height is 3.75inches. padded and stitched suede seat. stirrups pre turned . 8" POFC , 6.5" gullet. serial# 994. and stamped up under left jockey" longhorn #98-1877

Great saddle for a heavy built horse and is super comfortable for the rider! This is a well built saddle to be proud of! I'm very impressed with the workmanship and leather quality and the extra touches this shop has done on this lovely saddle!

This is a beautiful saddle with excellent tooling detail and leather craftsmanship!

rear cinch assembly avail for additional $50.00 that isn't original but matches.

ser# 226-4. semi QH tree. grain out (slick) seat. light chocolate color. lovely border tooling and crates quality! hard to beat in this price range! nice saddle! gullet 6inches, bars 7 inches. skirt length is 27 inches and saddle weighs 30lbs. comes with back cinch or will take it off for $25.00 less

This gorgeous little beauty is tooled with pink roses entwined with horse shoes from head to toe: behind the cantle, on the pommel, around the breast collar D's, on the skirts, on the rear cinch billets and even the hoof pick holder! It comes with an expensive breast collar by Mark Denning of Cowboy Gear tooled to match! no expense was spared in the making of this saddle! it has a wood rawhide wrapped FULL QTR BAR TREE. 4" Deep center pocket seat sets you right where you need to be! the entire saddle is made with soft supple high quality leather. bright silver berry conchos, a horn cap. silver laced rawhide cantle. braided white rawhide horn. and lovely braiding holding the skirts together behind the cantle! real sheepskin fleece... it is also double rigged, and the stirrup exchange leathers are numbered and made of high quality thick leather that doesn't stretch easily. stylishly shaped fender with the added riggin guards to make a smooth comfortable ride under your leg. all edges are stitched as is customary with the higher quality saddles.

this is a one of a kind custom saddle! that will pay u back years from now when you resell it. take care of it and this little beauty will never be worth less than what u paid!

yes your eyes do not deceive you. PHR is taking into serious consideration going into business with a saddle company to construct our own line of saddles! This is one company that has made a saddle for us and we have tested its balance and fit and it has passed inspection so is offered up for sale to the public.

specs: it has a wide qh polimer tree: 7 inch gullet, 8.5inches at POFC (point of first contact) tooling is a cloud border with a wild rose design on skirts and fenders, brass conchos, leather trail ties tied into tree for stout security, 7/8 riggin position., rust suede padded seat with 5 inch cantle and deep pocket seat, foreward horn design to stay out of solar plexes, upgraded high pile fleece looks and feels like real sheepskin without the risk of bug damage. close contact flatly stitched skirting under fender to ensure smooth unhindered leg action, lovely double detail on cantle. oversized stirrups to accomodate a larger boot and to ensure boot freedom while riding, saddle weighs in at 20lbs!

this saddle was custom ordered with an extra long fender. so it will not adjust up far enuf for a person shorter than 5ft6" cost of fender alteration is $25.00 at our local leather/saddle shop.

GORGEOUS SADDLE PKG! comes with matching martin breast collar and rear cinch and 36inch smart cinch.

semi-qh tree. 6" gullet and 7.25" at the bars at first point of contact with the shoulders(POFC). saddle looks almost new! buyer won't be disappointed with this deal!

Space-age seat lining-Supracore padded slick seat with burst stitching-top of the line seat construction for hours of comfortable riding. Molds to your bum as it warms!

The Crusade Lite is a beautiful hand-crafted steer hide endurance style trail saddle suitable for gaited horses. The Crusade Lite has synthetic skirting and Codura fenders to reduce the weight. With its superb balance and comfortable slightly deeper seat, the Crusade Lite endurance saddle is ideal for trails, endurance riding or everyday pleasure riding. Recessed stirrups prevent bulk under the leg and allow a more natural line from hip to heel. The Crusade Lite features fine quality leather for comfort during long days in the saddle. The saddle also features multiple rings for convenience.

To prevent elbow chaffing on your horse, our rigging in this saddle is set at 7/8 ‘Hanging Dee’ on the front, and drop rigging on the back. ‘Hanging Dee’ rigging is the most durable for trail riding because the ‘dee’ hangs and both ends of leather are fastened directly to the tree. Each saddle has Blevins buckles, leather near-side and off-side billets, and stainless steel hardware.

I now have this exact same saddle in the SONATA EXTRA WIDE TREE. built for Drafts and Friesian/WARMBLOOD body types. modified A fork pommel.

This lovely older Bona allen saddle is in nearly perfect condition! owner has loved and cared for this saddle impeccably! weighs in at 26lbs. comes with rear cinch assembly, 4 inch cantle. 14 inch swell to really hold you in! Semi-QH tree. 5 1/2 inch gullet 7 inches in the bars.

as you can clearly see. this saddle is in excellent shape. no blemishes qh bars.

SER#0-266 in new condition. beautiful set up! bullhide wrapped hardwood tree. weighs 48lbs including b/c and cinches.

comes with original breast collar, both front and back cinches. Comfortable Padded seat. THIS SADDLE IS EITHER A MULE BAR OR A SEMI QH TREE.

This saddle is on consignment. Its brand new and has something quite interesting! The tree is padded next to the horse somewhat like an english saddle! it has a 76 3/4 inch gullet and the bars measure a generous7 3/4. Once the saddle is properly placed on the horses back with the tree behind the scapula... the padded bars lift the front of the saddle off the shoulders to allow the scapula to move. a saddle fitter can move the flocking around to fit individual horses then reattach the fleece. Neet concept! Long skirts for added stability down sides of horse go under the rings so alleviate pressure.

SEMI QH rawhide covered hardwood tree, comes with matching breast collar, 36" smart cinch, and matching rear cinch and latigos. never roped off. only trail ridden in so pommel isn't all scarred up.

Nice saddle. well balanced and sets a horse well and give plenty of room in the gullet and top of the bars for scapula clearance. As you can clearly see the previous owner took excellent care of the leather. stitched suede seat. 6.5" gullet. bars a generous 8 at the point of first contact with the horses shoulders. skirt is 27inches long. saddle weights less than 40lbs.

CREAM COLORED OSTRICH BICYCLE SEAT- with slight blue jeans stains on the ostrich bumps. (LOOKS GREAT!)

SILVER STUDS AROUND BILLET KEEPERS & ALL CONCHO ROSETTES, PLUS! SILVER ENCASED CLEAR CRYSTALS AROUND SKIRTING EDGES & CANTLE. STIRRUPS PRETURNED. LOVELY COMBO BASKETWEAVE, OAK LEAVES IN CORNERS WITH DOUBLE ROPE BORDER TOOLING. INTRICATE ENTWINED OAK LEAVES WITH ROPE BORDER AND BASKET STAMPING ON POMMEL. QUITE A LOVELY COMBO! NATURAL RAWHIDE LACED CANTLE EDGE.

This saddle has a tall pommel and will fit a high withered horse, like new condition. gorgeous saddle! 5" cantle height. nicely padded comfortable seat. attractive barbwire border tooling. dropped riggin plates and double rigged, crupper ring, long tie strings. sells retail new for $1100.00