Welcome to our Tack Shop

{COURAGE} comes from taking everything life hands you and being your best either because of it or in spite of it...

"Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you've decided to see beyond the imperfections".

I will travel to your arena or club for group saddle fitting presentations for a flat prepaid fee of $500.00 (plus travel expenses for distances of over 75 miles)

you will need to provide horses for the clinic and a strong assistant to lift saddles for me. assistant is a free entrant.

A minimum of 10 prepaid participants @ $35.00 each. mileage is additional @ .75 cents a mile round trip. unless I have 15 pre-paid participants. then mileage is free.

you will need to provide horses for the clinic and a strong assistant to lift saddles for me. assistant is a free entrant

4-h students horse & saddle must be present to receive free saddle fitting diagnosis & advice

This class is geared towards trainers and professionals with a basic working knowledge of saddle fit.

Necessary tools to purchase in advance: 1" felt pad and 1/8 to 1/4" felt liner, and 1 to 1 1/2" velcro, glue gun with stong flexible glue sticks. heavy duty scissors and an exacto knife.

Bring Your horse, the saddle and pad you currently ride him with, we will be diagnosing your horse and saddle and correcting the problem using padding alterations:

You will be going home with a custom pad specifically designed for the horse that you bring along to this clinic.

Sign up and prepayment in advance required... this eliminates the necessity of me having to handle cash and pmts on the day of the clinic.
Email me and I will return an email containing clinic forms for you to mail back with pmt.

1)A brief 30-45 minute refresher on basic saddle fitting will be covered b4 moving into the advanced class

what does twist and taper mean to the comfort of your horse?
saddle tree rocker and straitness in relation to discipline and use.
not all bridging is bad
correct saddle positioning on the horses back
developing owner feel for saddle fit thru hands on learning.
equine conformation in relation to saddle fit

what are the signs of friction rub
how to take measurements and make wire molds of your horse and how to properly apply them when saddle shopping.

3) diagnosing your horses problem areas by the use of The Impression pad saddle fitting system

GOALS: TO BRING THE RIDER INTO AN AWARENESS OF HOW REIN LEVEL & POSITIONING AFFECT YOUR HORSES ABILITY TO UNDERSTAND AND OBEY YOUR REQUEST. THIS CLASS IS GEAR TO DEVELOPING YOUR COMMUNICATE TO SPECIFIC AREA OF THE HORSE AND HOW THIS RELATES TO LEG PRESSURE.

Your horse must be currently under saddle to enter this class, If your horse is still in ground training but ready to start under saddle and you want to get him/her started using correct rein management then you are welcome to rent 1 of my lesson horses for $60.00 to attend this class.

THIS CLASS WILL GO HAND IN HAND WITH THE NEXT CLASS OFFERED "ADVANCED REIN MANAGEMENT"

THIS TEAM RODE THE SPIN WITHOUT USING ANY HANDS ON HER REINS~~ USING BODY LANGUAGE AND CORRECT POSITIONING ONLY!

THIS STUDENT HAS BEEN TRAINING HERE AT PHR FOR 1 YEAR AND HAS REACHED HER PERSONAL GOAL TO LEARN HOW TO SET A SPIN CORRECTLY!!!! AND RIDE BRIDLESS. SHE IS ON HER WAY!!!

GOALS: TO make rider aware of his/her own body while riding and to DEVELOP RIDER FEEL & TIMING THRU THE REINS & REFINE THE RIDERS ABILITY TO MOVE THE 4 CORNERS OF THE HORSE IN COMBINATION WITH PROPER LEG POSITIONING and hip pressures.

Rider must have a basic working knowledge/awareness of rein positioning and leg cues.

RIDERS WILL ROTATE THRU MY 2 LESSON HORSES TO DEVELOP A FEEL B4 ATTEMPTING IT ON THEIR OWN HORSES.

YOUR HORSE MUST BE ABLE TO ACCEPT OVER 1 HOUR OF INSTRUCTION AT ONE TIME B4 RECEIVING A BREAK..

THERE WILL BE A 1/2 HOUR BREAK AT 12:30-1:00, bring a chair, lunch and beverage.

IF YOU PLAN TO BE THERE AND WANT ME TO BRING A CERTAIN SADDLE FROM MY INVENTORY,

LET ME KNOW IN ADVANCE SINCE I WILL NOT BE BRINGING THE ENTIRE SELECTION TO THIS SALE.

Problem horses, young horses, horses that stop on their front end...all the way to... people who want their horse to slide.

FED EX, UPS GROUND or USPS whichever is cheaper. Sometimes I don't know until I actually take them in to ship them, since their internet calculator is often times inaccurate. I ship within 7 DAYS OF RECEIPT OF PAYMENT... I CHARGE $15.00 FOR PACKING MATERIALS AND THE BOX.

I LIVE QUITE A WAYS OUT OF TOWN SO I WON'T MAKE A SPECIAL TRIP BUT IF BUYER NEEDS THE SADDLE IMMEDIATELY AND WOULD LIKE AN "EXPRESS SHIPMENT" I WILL MAKE THE DRIVE FOR AN ADDITIONAL $20.00.

1) If a shipped saddle doesn't fit your horse or is uncomfortable to you I have allowed you to have the saddle in your possession for 3 days b4 you return it. If the saddle is in the same condition as when it was shipped from PHR I will refund your full purchase price. The shipping cost is your loss and will not be refunded. You will be responsible to pay postage both ways. The saddle must be received back at my ranch within within 14 days from date of original shipment from my ranch, and be clean and in same condition, it must be insured for purchase price at buyers expense in order to be accepted. If it is insured I will accept the saddle from the mail carrier and upon opening the box I will inspect the saddle for damages that may have been incurred while in your possession. If its been well cared for and still in same condition as when I shipped it to you then I will accept it for a refund. If not, I will expect you to mail me the shipping amount so I can return it to you.

Please call me if you will be returning a saddle. I WILL ask u if you have taken care of it and it is in same condition b4 allowing you to ship it to me. I expect honesty! Don't expect to sneak one by me, ok? remember...I will be holding the saddle and the money...so play fair with me from the start! If its received a large scratch, bite mark or trailer rub or something of the sorts while you have had it, or parts are missing, I will not refund. Then you will have to pay me to ship it back to you or wait until the missing parts are received b4 I mail your refund!

If you were unable to ship the saddle within the 3 days that it has been allowed in your possession and the saddle is not received back at the ranch within the 14 day return period then a 10% restocking fee will be deducted from the purchase price and the difference will be mailed within 10 days of receipt of saddle. IE: you received the saddle on a Monday it must be boxed and reshipped on Wed. if you received the saddle on a Friday it must be back in the mail the following Monday morning- so that it is in route that entire day)

*transport saddle in the shipping box or covered with a large plastic bag or saddle cover to prevent scratches and water damage.

*when handling the saddle out of protective cover be sure not to scrape it on walls or doorways such as in and out of trailer.

*put the saddle on a clean pad. Do not ride in the rain or on a "real ride" where it could get hurt until its yours!

2) If you have come to the ranch and brought your horse in order to buy a saddle and left with one that you are satisfied fits your horse and is comfortable to you then there is no return policy offered. The saddle is sold as is. If you change your mind~then you can resell it or you are welcome to call me and ask me what price I will buy it back at.

3) If you have come to the ranch to buy a saddle and not brought your horse then you have 3 days to try it and get it back to me ON THE 3RD DAY and I will refund the full purchase price as long as the saddle is clean, no arts are missing, and in same condition. If you can't get it back to me in the 3 days, then I will accept it back up to 7 days but will deduct a 10% restocking fee from the purchase price. No exceptions. If you tell me you can't get it back to me at the specified time then don't take the saddle on trial until you can comply with my return policy! Do not take a saddle on a trial and plan on riding it on a trail ride. If you do. its yours to keep. The purpose of a trial is to see if it fits you and your horse ONLY.

4) If you have left a deposit on a saddle and we have terms that have been listed on the sale contract. stick to those terms. or your deposit is NON REFUNDABLE.

a) consignments -items not belonging to me- website will indicate a clients saddle by the words "on consignment or "owner asking"

c) if you have traded in your saddle towards the purchase price on one of mine.

6) Please understand that I am selling you a USED saddle, therefore it will have some blemishes when you receive it. Cosmetic/visual blemishes are what they are. If you bought it with a sweat mark, scratch or a missing concho, or a thread is broken, or the stirrup leathers have additional holes punched into them, (and so on and so forth) you cant return it becuz it shows those kinds of usual wear on a used saddle. So be sure to ask for enuf pictures and/or ask enough questions prior purchase that you can be sure its what you want to own and ride. I try to point out blemishes that are unusual or large, or has missing parts~ but my idea of whats unusual or big or ugly will be different than some folks idea so I'm not going to point out every little flaw on a "used" saddle~ that would be silly. So if you are the type of person that any of that matters to~ then make the drive~or ask for additional pictures and ask questions. Sound fair enuf?

7) If I find that the saddle has been damaged upon return to the shop and I can not resell it~ then its your loss if you chose not insure it~ I will not refund your money.

Selling a saddle the way I have chosen to do it, with all the advice and time I spend with each customer prior their purchase decision I have had to modify my return policy several times in order to become satisfied with it myself. Its been a bit of a journey for me and I have been taken advantage of on many levels so I began to realize I need to protect myself from this continual reoccurrence. Its frustrating. So please understand that my return policy is what it is becuz I need to protect myself from continual returns when people are allowed the time to find something cheaper, or it has a blemish they don't like.

I FULLY REALIZE THAT I WILL BE UNABLE TO MAKE ALL OF THE BUYERS HAPPY....BUT I MOST CERTAINLY TRY MY BEST TO SEE THAT YOU ARE HAPPY WITH YOUR PURCHASE.

Internet buyers are encouraged to request additional pics of the saddle prior final decision to purchase so that you can see the saddle in detail from all the angles that you personally require to come to an educated purchase decision. I realize that the few pictures I post on ads and on my webpage might not be enough views to enable some buyers to come to a purchase decision.

My saddles are guaranteed sound. No broken trees and no broken riggin up underneath. Every saddle that comes in is inspected by more than one person to be sure its safe and solid when it comes in and b-4 it goes in the box to be mailed out.

Most of my shipping boxes are 21 x21x28 to 34 , so that box size needs plugged into the shipping calculator in order to get a proper shipping calculation. I will verify shipping prior making a shipping quote. But with the box size you can at least get an estimate prior contacting me. Smaller saddles can fit into a smaller box....sometimes I have them, sometimes I don't~ and that is why I make final shipping calculation since I may be able to save you money by having a smaller box on hand.

The Lord has been gently prompting me for several years.... but now I've finally had the kick in my butt thats inspired me to get going in the direction I've needed to go in educating horse owners across around the globe about proper saddle fit.

(with the assistance of Kim Rickman who has helped me with my website for several years now)

If you need help building a site or need a reliable and knowledgable webhost contact her @

Proper saddle fit has become an area of natural horsemanship that is developing rapidly- and for excellent reason! Horses have suffered under saddle for far too long! So this is a positive development since poorly fitting saddles cause problems not only for the poor horse, but for the rider as well. However, the increased emphasis on proper saddle fit has caused many people to go on a quest for the “perfect” saddle for their horse.

There is no such thing as the perfectly fitting saddle over the life of a horse. A horse’s conformation changes throughout its life, and even throughout the year as their exercise level and nutrition varies. Buying a saddle to precisely fit a horse for this moment in time often results in a poorly fitting saddle at a later date- because you quit looking and assessing- your brain moves on becuz its considered the job done! Thats a problem when your horse gains 50lbs or begins to age- or comes out of training and begins to stand around and lose muscle tone. or go into training and gain it!

The good news is that it’s not necessary to have the “perfect” saddle for a horse to have a comfortable fit. Fortunately, we have excellent choice of saddle pads these days that take up the slack- however we do need to get the fit as close as possible. Proper saddle fit isn't an exact science. You can begin by searching for a well-built saddle designed for the physical type of the horse you ride. Be leary of polymer type trees, they warp and twist over time and you wont know it. I see these saddles come in every month with a dropped bar or twist in the tree.

The basics of a properly fitting saddle are: the saddle should comfortably clear a horse’s withers, be wide enough to set on the shoulders so as to allow for free movement of the shoulders, be the proper length and shape for its back, and be well balanced to provide good weight distribution. That's proper saddle fit. If you ride horses of different breeds or significantly different sizes, then you'll need to invest in multiple saddles.

The goal of proper saddle fit is to identify a saddle that fits both participants - the horse and the rider. But which is the most important of the two? Without question, fitting the horse IS the primary goal. Let's look at how to match the right saddle to your horse.

The saddle needs to snow shoe the riders weight evenly over the horses topline.

Saddle fit isn't an exact science. It takes some savvy to determine whether or not you have a good fit. Consult a qualified saddle fitter for diagnosis. Your horse will thank you! The insignificant amount of money you might spend is a pittance to what you WILL spend later if you don't get a diagnosis!

You will also need a variety of saddle pads to accommodate the seasonal and physical changes your horse goes thru, as well as the different horses you ride with one saddle.

IF YOU DESIRE A LITTLE ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCE IN DETERMINING PROPER SADDLE FIT I WILL BE HAPPY TO ASSIST YOU, SIMPLY DEPOSIT 45.00 INTO MY PAYPAL ACCOUNT AND DROP ME AN EMAIL OR PHONE CALL SO WE CAN GET STARTED DIAGNOSING YOUR HORSE AND SADDLES..

FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT CAN MAKE THE DRIVE TO ME...I CHARGE A MERE $75.00 FOR A SADDLE FITTING SESSION. THERE ARE SEVERAL SADDLE FITTERS HERE IN OREGON...THEY CHARGE $200.00 AND UP. SO I BELIEVE I AM WORTH THE DRIVE FROM WHERE EVER YOU ARE, THE TOOLS I TEACH YOU WILL BENEFIT YOUR HORSES FOR A LIFETIME!

If you purchase a saddle from me I will apply $25.00 of the saddle fit fee towards the purchase price of the saddle.

FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO CALL ME AND NEED SADDLE FITTING ADVICE OVER THE INTERNET , I CAN ASSIST YOU QUITE ACCURATELY VIA EMAIL, PICTURES, VIDEO AND VERBAL CONVERSATION: THE LONG DISTANCE SADDLE FIT FEE IS $100.00. WHICH YOU CAN DEPOSIT INTO PAYPAL( madrick1@centurytel.net) AT ANY POINT B4 YOUR PICTURES ARRIVE TO MY EMAIL. THEN OUR DIALOG CAN BEGIN AND I WILL STAY WITH YOU UNTIL YOU HAVE LOCATED A SADDLE THAT FITS YOUR HORSE FOR NO ADDITIONAL FEE! (IF YOU PURCHASE A SADDLE FROM ME- $25.00 OF THE SADDLE FIT FEE IS APPLIED TO THE SADDLE YOU PURCHASE). THIS IS ALOT MORE WORK FOR US BOTH TO GET IT RIGHT. BUT IT CAN BE DONE IF YOU HAVE PATIENCE. AND THE EDUCATION YOU WILL RECEIVE FROM ME ABOUT SADDLE FIT AND FEEL .....WILL LAST A LIFETIME!

MY SOLE PURPOSE IN THIS HEARTFELT MISSION I AM ON HERE.... IS THE KNOWLEDGE THAT I HAVE HELPED THESE NOBLE ANIMALS BE MORE COMFORTABLE DOING THEIR JOBS AS RIDING COMPANIONS!

Cut 2- 18 inch wires, copper is best but baling wire works! fold in half so there are 9 inches on each side.

WIRE#1: gently form the wire over your horses withers OVER the scapula, making certain the entire wire is formed to the horse clear to the ends. step to the rear of your horse for the necessary visual needed to be accurate. Take it off the horse and lay it flat. place your tape measure at the top and drop strait down 3 inches, then measure the distance left to right from that point. then measure the distance between the ends of the wire.

WIRE#2: Then take a 2nd wire mold by placing the wire directly BEHIND the scapulas (usually 3-4 inches behind the 1st measurement) and then measure the distances again. take a picture of these 2 mold on a light colored surface and email it to me with the pictures requested.

The Following pictures are what I will need in order to fit one of my saddles to your horse via the internet!

with these 7 pictures I can properly assist you in determining if the saddle you are interested in on my website will fit you and your horse!

also send me the brand name of the saddle you are attempting to use that isn't fitting, serial# if avail, gullet and bar width and skirt length from front to back.

Please understand that the height of your horse doesn't depict the size of saddle you or he will need> I've fit 13 hand ponies with an extra wide QH bar saddle and 17hand Tb's and Saddlebreds with Semi QH trees.

Also, the size tree your horse needs doesn't depict the size seat you as a rider will need. they are separate issues. Also please understand that an "Arab tree" saddle doesn't always mean narrow either. I've seen Arab tree saddles be wider thru the bars than full QH tree saddles. This depends on the maker. Some makers realize that alot of Arabs are flat back and mutton withered across the top and other saddle makers make their Arab tree to fit the thinner type Arabians so put a straiter bar tree in their Arabian saddles. Many Arab saddles have a contoured tree with more rocker- but your arab/horse may not need more contour so buying one of these would be painful for your horse. It pays to do your homework when buying a saddle to fit your horse as an individual. Most saddle makers have a website these days so email them and ask them about the trees in their saddles-even if you are purchasing a used make of their saddle, they are most helpful in after market sales of their saddles.

Please remember that as your horse ages he will need a different saddle, so be sure to reassess your saddle fit at the beginning of each new riding season.

So heres a little FYI to raise your awareness when looking at your horses back:

if your horses back looks like a church steeple from the top down. you will need a narrower tree.

If his back looks like the top side of a ball or the rolling hills of Missouri he will need a wide flat bar

If His back looks like a triple Mountain, a taller mountain in the middle (his wither)...this is where it gets tricky becuz you may only be able to fit his back with a wide tree but the slope of the shoulder is the final factor for this type of horse. My Peebs is this way and thru the years as he has gotten older I have changed saddles a few times in order to keep him in a comfortable fit.

If his back looks like a bowl you will need a tree with alot of contour/rocker to prevent painful bridging

If his back is really strait and there isn't much rise from the lowest part of the back to the top of the wither you will need a tree that is strait and with little rocker. but remember, you still need to determine wide or narrow bar! they are separate issues.

If your horses shoulder ties into his wither in the forward part of the wither, the center of his wither or behind his wither all means something too! becuz this is your horses shoulder action. the way he moves...you've heard the term a strait or slopey shoulder?

This factor determines whether or not your horse will need a tree with a flare in the front to the bars to accomodate the shoulder in and out of the gullet.

So! I know this is confusing....but I hope it helps you when looking at your horse or ponys back.

the difference between the semi qh, qh and wide qh tree is the angle of the bars and the width of the gullet at the top where the bars begin.

The semi QH tree is narrower at the top, but the bar angle is generally the same as a qh tree making the width all the way down slightly narrower than the QH tree by up to an inch from start to finish. whereby fitting a narrower horse both up on its topline as well as lower on the bottom of the tree. so fitting a horse without much upper or lower shoulder muscling. This saddle is not for a wide bodied horse with a wide chest and big shoulder.

saddle on the left: this crates trail saddle has a semi qh tree with the same gullet measurement as the Qh tree" saddle on the right that has a flatter bar angle, but the crates has a straiter bar angle making the skirts drop down straiter along the body of the horse. this saddle is made for a narrower horse such as a tennessee walker body type, narrow without much outside shoulder muscling. while you might be fooled into thinking it would fit a heavy horse with a big wither but with his heavy muscling in the lower shoulder it would rub him painfully all along his ribcage at the bottom of the bars. So you MUST pay attention to the angle of the bar, which is the width of the bars at the bottom as well as the top.

The Circle Y roping saddle has a regular QH tree and is 1 inch wider in the gullet (the channel going down the back) which allows more room for a comfortable fit for a wider back and heavier shoulder. but the bar angle is generally the same as the semi qh tree...only having a wider beginning so a wider ending at the bottom of the bar.

The 2 saddles below are wide tree saddles. the first one is Billy Cook and its not only wide in the gullet but also having flatter bars to accomodate not only the meatier topline but also a wide body and large shoulder muscle. bull doggy built horses with wide chests and meaty lower shoulder. the 2nd saddle is a Clinton Anderson and its a wide tree as well, but has a narrower gullet which will make better contact on the top of the bars for some horses. but the POFC is the same on both saddles between the 2 front conchos. (so u must KNOW what your horse's body type needs b4 you shop!)

both these saddles have a wide QH tree, but the clinton anderson saddle on the right has a narrower gullet than the one with the tape measure across it. however, they do measure the same in the bars where I am holding the tape measure. do you see how "flat" the bars are in the clinton anderson saddle on the right compared to the saddle on the left? the saddle on the right would fit a select number of draft horses due to the flat bar angle.(just to add a little confusion) If a horse has wide, steep strait up shoulders. the narrow gullet wouldnt provide enuf room for the top of the scapula. If your horse is wide and heavy shouldered but his shoulder blades angle in towards the wither. the narrower gullet might just fit!

here are some general measurements that all saddles will fit into. please keep in mind that the brand of saddle and the type/make of tree they are building on varies brand to brand and even year to year-just like car bodies and styles vary year to year within the same make, right? When a saddle company discontinues buying the trees they are building the saddle on from one company ~ the new tree maker has his/her own idea of what a semi QH, QH and wide QH tree measurement should be- so while its still built on a qh tree...it could be up to 3/4 of an inch wider or narrower than the same brand and make of saddle you might have purchased 1 year earlier!!

tree variance also depends on the brand of saddles and can vary as much as 1 inch difference brand to brand( CircleY, Herford, Crates, Martin, Billy Cook etc) ...which is why I am giving you a range on each tree size.

here are some general rule measurements to assist you in deciding what tree your saddle has in it:

bars measure 9-10 inches

wade trees are different and so are gaited trees...these gullets can be as narrow as 4 inches! so lets just not go there, ok?

FYI: people don't often pay attention to loin pressure when attempting to determine saddle fit. This is a tree rocker issue, skirt length issue, or a padding issue. could be either or a combination.

the amount of contour or "rocker" that the tree has is an enormous factor in fit as well. No matter how wide the tree is, if its strait from front to back and your horse needs more contour (swayback) or visa versa- he needs a straiter tree (mule backed)... the tree won't fit. it will bridge-leaving gaps under the saddle or cause pressure points from a deep spot in the tree where your horse needs it to be shallow.

my best advice is to take your horse in for a saddle fitting with the saddle of your choice to be certain its a good fit for your horse. This is NOT something you should attempt to decide on your own. The purpose in my saddle educations section is to raise your level of awareness on saddle fit. NOT to assist you in making the final decision on your own. Saddle fit is a HUGE concern. People don't put enuf emphasis in making certain that their saddle fits their horse and this is a huge factor in horse behavior and training. If they are hurting how can they possibly concentrate on learning when all they can think of is getting the problem off their backs?

Just becuz you are a trainer doesn't mean you are an expert on saddle fit! In ignorance, trainers attempt to train away a pain response. This is NOT fair to your horse! So please folks....I urge you to take your horse and saddle to a saddle fitting expert and have it checked out.

And if your horse gains a buncha weight or widens with age.... have it checked AGAIN. Just becuz it fit when you had it checked 2 years ago...doesn't mean it will fit now. We tned to check it once and forget it. This is an area that needs assessed often!

Heres an "aha" concept: do you wear the same size clothes as you did in high school? or since you've had children? or since your knee surgery 5 years ago? or how bout after the holidays???? horses go thru body changes too! these changes can mandate a new saddle!

and sometimes.....there isn't a tree that will fit your horse perfectly...so then a saddle fitter must compensate with proper padding...

as for your needs...... pant size determines your size seat. see "so you've bought a nice horse lets get started the right way" section.

I wish you the best of luck and I am sure in hopes I have a saddle in my shop that will fit both you and your horse.

I have posted pictures of saddle parts so that when you shop you can be articulate with your questions about saddle parts.

In this picture the gullet is the same on both normal and wide angle... however...the gullet CAN be wider or narrower...you would need to know what gullet width you need to fit your horse as well as the bar angle needed, and length of bar front to back...

and these are just the basics! becuz then we get into twist and rocker and taper and and and....

I know there is a glare on the tape in this picture. but the picture has been provided to show where to measure to. do you see the line of stitching clearly running around the cantle. It attaches the suede to the slick leather of the cheyenne roll on this cantle. Notice that the metal end of the tape is not pressed against the back of the horn, but instead raised just above the hole in the front of the seat and is pressed against the back of the swells instead. The tape can be raised up 1-2 inches from this hole without changing the seat size. but if you raise the tape up to the back of the horn you can actually gain a whole inch- sometimes more if the horn is a "forward" horn. Where by misrepresenting the actual size of the seat. That is why the proper way to measure is to press the tape to the back of the swells and stretch it tight and run it to the first line of stitching you come to on the back of the seat. A buyer can often be extremely upset when they have paid shipping on a saddle that the seat has been measured incorrectly...I know...I have been one of those buyers many times! This saddle has a 16inch seat

HOW TO PROPERLY MEASURE THE BARS AND GULLET OF A SADDLE AND KNOWING THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE 2!

1) the picture below demonstrates how to measure the BARS of a saddle where tree makes first contact to the horses back (POFC-point of first contact): this older Circle Y saddle measures 7.5. but is considered by Circle Y to be a QHBar at the time they were putting this brand of tree in their saddles... I consider it a semi QH bar compared to other trees (even within the circle Y brand of saddles) that measure a full 8 inches at this point.

2) the picture below IS how to measure the gullet: (this is a newer Circle Y fqhb-the measurement is 6- 6.5 depending on how you read it)

(just as in the top picture of an older fqhb circle Y saddle only this newer one is 8 inches instead of 7.5- BOTH are considered fqhb by Circle Y!)

4) below is the same newer Circle Y saddle demonstrating the bottom of the bars measurement(ie: where the rigid tree ends) measures 13 inches

5) the saddle picture below was recently sent to me by a client needing clarification. and while the measurements are improperly named- my reason in using this picture is to point out the 2 inch difference in the top of the bars when compared to the 2 Circle Y fqhb saddles shown above:

this saddle owner has named the top measurement a "gullet measurement" when the gullet is actually measured higher up where the metal brads end.

so this is actually the "bars measurement" or "point of first contact"- this narrow saddle measures only 6 inches: which is not even close to being wide enuf for the average QH unless padded up to set higher so that the horses back actually makes contact lower on the bars where the bars widen out. but by doing that you lose stability since there isnt much tree contact running down the sides of your horse. so you will roll side to side easier from side to side with less bar contact. and you will be tempted to cinch your horse tighter thinking that is the problem....but that will only cause your horse to become bitter about being saddled. so if u have been experiencing this problem.... get a WIDER saddle!

To measure the bars at POFC (POINT OF FIRST CONTACT) to the horses back (ie: the most important measurement when determining fit) The tape must be placed on front lip of saddle, level with the centers of conchos. The inside to inside distance between the front of the bars is how much room the tree provides for the horses shoulders to work. The bars is the place of "first contact" that the saddle makes with the horse. A good indicator of an ill fitting saddle is if this front edge buries itself (makes a dent or depression) into the horse when cinched down and you cannot comfortably get your fingers under the front edge of leather. If your fingers cannot comfortably fit up in there then imagine how your horses shoulder would feel to come up and repeatedly hit that with your weight in the saddle? Please keep in mind that this is only one of several ways to determine correct fit. also keep in mind that if your horse has a sway in his back (due to age or conformation), you may have to properly pad his back with the specialty orthopedic pads specially designed to fill in the hallows behind his shoulders or to fill in the low spot in his back between his shoulders and loins in order to get a saddle to fit properly (or order a modified association tree in your next saddle! remember: Corriente Saddlery makes an excellent one!) . also Rocking R arab tree is excellent for this type horse! Or if your horse s conformation "runs downhill" ANY saddle will slide forward and bear down in the front and bump his shoulders if its improperly padded. So pay attention to these types of conformation details when determining fit. Now a days the saddle fleece is no long an important factor on a saddle and should NOT be considered sufficient padding when combined with a navaho pad, or foam/fleece combination pad....there is NO REPLACING the necessity of a thick comfortable pad! There are several articles out that say the "skito pad" is sufficient padding also articles that say that the semi- quarter horse tree fits the majority of horses...as a trainer I STRONGLY disagree with both statements...they simply haven't proven true in my barn so why would I think they would anywhere else?! as for the skito pads....how would you like to have your hair pulled by sticky rubber material?

also...Too many trainers/riders don't put enuf emphasis on the fact that bad behaviour could quite possibly be a pain response and for months and months (even years) they try to "train away" the signs of pain and eventually tell the owner to get a new horsey....often not the best advice!

As a practicing trainer there are 5 things that I start with when I get a horse in with bad behaviour.... 1) ill fitting or poorly padded saddle 2) chiropractor needed

3) bad shoeing (painful angles or unbalanced hoof) 4) dental work needed. 5) unsoundness-(could be temporary soreness or a permanent injury or disease)

After repeated testing these pads far exceeded any other pad I've compared them to! They levitate the saddle and rider over the horses working back and provide ZERO pressure points, plus have a nice air return to keep the horse cooler.

http://www.saddleright.com/*** The Saddleright pad has climbed to the top of my list for pads in 2011! definitely impressive pads with a guarantee that can't be beat! with the guarantee they offer you will NEVER have to purchase another pad in your lifetime! SADDLE-RITE pad cost new is 279.00. We use this pad for a gelding with a shoulder injury and he performs better with this pad than any other I have tried. The unique material does the absolute best job at snowshoeing the saddle and rider over the length of the pad. The saddle and rider literally levitate over the horses back while maintaining close contact! AMAZING! The company offers a lifetime guarantee no matter who owns it!

The SaddleRight pad will never compress (which is my main gripe right now with the pro choice "air ride" pads- the compression rate is rapid and folks don't realize it is no longer doing its job and actually making the horse even more uncomfortable- great pads IF you keep a close eye on them and know when to toss em and get new ones)- as is the case with MANY pads being sold on the market today including felt pads!

The new Parelli pad is quite unique~~~ Probably the best blow up pad I've see to date as far as comfort for the horse. Altho it is not a close contact feel for the rider (squishy feeling)! they are a pain to get adjusted correctly. but will adapt to any horses conformation and make adjustments for any saddle.

IF YOUR HORSE HAS A SWAY BACK DUE TO multiple FOALs OR AGE: Reinsman Contour Swayback Saddle Pad-can be purchased from www.horsesaddleshop.com

Here's a bit of "saddle pad trivia" for you to think about: a built up pad may actually cause more pressure on your horses shoulders~ depending on the shape of the bars in the front of your saddle compared to the actual shape of your horses shoulders~ PLUS! if you have a saddle with a strait tree (minimal rocker) raising in the front causes kidney/loin pressure in the back- especially on a "downhill"or sway backed horse!! so raising the front of your saddle can cause a different set of problems for your horse to cope with.

At least the Pro Choice ortho sport pad or a pad that is designed to allows shims to be placed in the area behind the scapulas the saddle is raised up just enuf to level it out in the front without restricting or pinching shoulders and give the scapulas something soft to bump into as the swing back instead of the rigid twist of the tree.

For what it's worth...heres my 2 cents with my experience when using shims: The shims assist the horse from being in pain from a terrible fitting saddle...but when combined with a well fitting saddle, shims only allow a minimal amount of rebuild on the atrophied muscling.... the shims will never allow a complete healing of the back muscling.... HOWEVER.... the saddle right pads DO allow complete regeneration of muscling when combined with a well fitting saddle! unlike shims!

Please keep in mind that pads must be kept properly washed just like your personal garments in order to prevent chafing and bacterial skin/hair infections! Pads must be checked every riding season to be sure it has not compacted in the pressure areas and is no longer doing its job of leveling the load and absorbing the shock of your bodies impact.

DO NOT cut corners on the gear your horse wears. Comfort is as essential to your horses performance and maintaining his "happy and willing to work" attitude! If he is uncomfortable he will NOT be willing, and you will begin to see behavior problems such as pinning his ears, refusal to stand still or biting during saddling! refusing to lope, tail swishing or bucking.

Your saddle fit should be checked at the beginning of every riding season to be sure your horses back and/or weight has not changed making it necessary to buy a different saddle or at the very least a new and/or additional pad to adjust and/or absorb the ill fit.

when hez doin you the favor of packin you up the trail so YOU can have a relaxing time.

so PLEASE pay attention to the age of your gear, cleanliness and fit! just becuz your saddle fit your horse last year doesn't mean it will fit this year.

as your horse ages its back changes shape. In fact...their backs change shape from spring to fall of the same year due to weight change. So you may need 2 saddles depending on the time of year you are riding and the physical condition of your horse.

If you cannot figure it out...pay a professional for assistance and do it "yesterday!" Your horse deserves to be comfortable too!

Click on the links below to read these EXCELLENT articles on correct saddle placement/fitting and how to tell if your current saddle is ill-fitting:

(if u have one that I don't have listed PLEASE email it to me so I can post it!)

Ph#: (435) 789 - 1212

Here is a weblink to 2 of the most effective Equine Chiropractors I have found in Oregon:

For those of you who are skeptics: think on this....we ride on their backs...so it just makes sense...

We need them...why wouldn't horses?????

http://horsechiro.com/

Dr. Joe Lally

Bend Oregon

thehorsechiro@aol.com

Joe does myofascial (muscles) work on the horse as well as skeletal adjustments

503-545-1541

This man has magic fingers!

"healing in his hands"

I also use a wonderful local Equine Chiro!

Dr. Steve Johnson

Corvallis Or

(541) 754-1900

THIS IS A BRAND NEW SADDLE! built on a FQHB association tree. COMES WITH REAR CINCH ASSEMBLY, LATIGO AND OFF BILLET. FQHB. COMES WITH REGULAR SIZED STIRRUPS, HOWEVER...OVER SIZED STIRRUPS AVAIL FOR AN ADDITIONAL $50.00.

I purchased this saddle from the original owner. its in great shape and ready to ride, comes with front and back billets and tie strap, belly strap for rear cinch did not arrive in the box with the saddle. is pictured with a cinch but one did not arrive with this saddle. The wide ones like this are difficult to find. the gullet is 7" and the bars at the POFC(point of first contact) is a generous 8.5"

Lovely little saddle with a flat bar angle and very short bars in front of the swells to allow less shoulder restriction. 21" length. 7.75" bar width. 6.25" gullet width

This Charlie Ashcraft All-Around RANCH CUTTER saddle is built on a Bull hide Ashcraft All-Around tree with a full-double rigging, 4" cantle with Cheyenne roll and rawhide binder, 3 1/2" cutter style horn, 3" Rawhide Deep roper stirrups, Rust suede seat, Natural Gold finish with a waffle tooling and hand carved Oak & Acorn accents. The jockeys and fenders are a smoothout leather and the skirts feature a cut-away for better movement.

Tree:	15" - Ralide 13" Front, Full-Quarter Horse Bars
Horn:	Pleasure Horn
Cantle:	4" with 1 1/2" Cheyenne Roll
Gullet:	6 1/2" width (15" & 16") 6 3/4" width (17")
Seat:	Extra-padded seat, smooth-out.
Rigging:	Full Double Rigged. Stainless steel rigging dees, breast collar dees.
Trim:	Nylon Cordura skirts, fenders and housing. Fleece-lined skirt. Leather reinforced nylon stirrup straps with "Quick Change" buckles. Front and back saddle strings.
Weight:	Approximately 22 lbs
Includes:	Cinch, Off Billet and Tie Strap.